Obsession

Ever since I visited the archives at Carlo Manzi I have become obsessed by the Ivy League Look. The Madras jacket and madras fabric in general. I am really wanting to incorporate this into my collection, to look at the American version of a mod is so interesting, I am also beginning to get a vision of my mod boy and he would definitely have essential items in his wardrobe such as a madras jacket and a pair of ivory flood pants.

My 21st Londontown

As it was my 21st Birthday it sort of ended up turning into a four day event!! Two of the days I spent in London with Marcus, Christina and her boyfriend Chris. Was such good fun to get away from Bournemouth, there's always something quite exciting when you get into central London and you can just go where ever you want. We trawled the sales in Selfridges and various other luxurious shops! I also went to Emporio Armani menswear, some of the colours in the new collections are really vibrant, bursts of reds and oranges sit well with greys, slate and black.

I was a very lucky girl and Marcus bought me a D&G bag, it's absolutely beautiful!! I love it almost more than him! In the evening we went to see Grease at the Piccadilly Theatre, was a great show the band were fantastic and then went back to our hotel in Kensington ready for another days shopping, were I then purchased some Vivienne Westwood earrings.

It was a lovely trip and a great way to spend my birthday, and did get some really good ideas and inspiration for my collection, just have to go back to reality now.

Visit to Carlo Manzi

What a day!! After an enchanting visit to a menswear archive owned by Carlo Manzi, I feel completely inspired! It was fantastic not only to see hundreds and thousands for menswear clothes and accessories but so amazing to listen to Carlo and how he got into collecting and where it has taken him.

I took this opportunity to look at the fine finished details on suits, particularly jackets, it was great to see so many different finishes and design features.

Mod era - something that I have already been researching into for major project prep, I really want to take it further into my collection, focusing on formal wear, and suiting.

Carlo was telling me about the American Italian influence that British mods took on. He introduced me to the Madras Jacket and how the garment was finished, and the American tailoring. Colour within a Madras jacket was the key feature, something that in the 60s Britain had never seen.

Carlo then went on to say how he acquires the clothing, he often attends auctions, markets, vintage shops or sometimes through reputation and word of mouth, sellers will approach him.

For example he had a phone call one day from the daughter of a wealthy man that had died, she asked Carlo if he would be interested in buying 50 Savile Row suits! However the suits were in Germany, Carlo then added that he wouldn't go to Germany as it was too much to risk without seeing them. He then offered to pay for them to be shipped over. When they arrived there were 58 Savile Row suits all by Henry Poole and Huntsman. He wouldn't say how much he paid though!

Carlo also explained that although he has done lots of work for lots of films by providing the costumes for many famous films, he never watches them it doesn't interest him. The clothes are what interests him, he said its almost like an obsession, sometimes he will by something simply because he doesn't want anybody else to have it. He also quoted "Men are anoraks".

We asked him what his favourite piece was and he said that it was a Parker jacket, reversible and it was made for the Korean War. The colour on the outside was green and on the inside white.

He also introduced me to a fantastic blog 'the trad' with some dandy images of American inspired 60s fashion. Something I am defiantly interested in experimenting with in my collection.

Key looks - Short ankle length trousers, High waisted trousers, basket ball boats loafers, beef roll stitching on loafers.

Some of the films that Carlo has rented out pieces of his archive to;

Lock stock

Snatch

Mitchell & Webb

Hearafter

Fone jacker

The fast show

Rock n Roller

Hot fuzz

Johnny English

American Girl

Love Actually

Layer Cake

Wimbledon

Match Point

Enduring Love