Tuesday 5 January 2010

Visit to Carlo Manzi

What a day!! After an enchanting visit to a menswear archive owned by Carlo Manzi, I feel completely inspired! It was fantastic not only to see hundreds and thousands for menswear clothes and accessories but so amazing to listen to Carlo and how he got into collecting and where it has taken him.
I took this opportunity to look at the fine finished details on suits, particularly jackets, it was great to see so many different finishes and design features.
Mod era - something that I have already been researching into for major project prep, I really want to take it further into my collection, focusing on formal wear, and suiting.
Carlo was telling me about the American Italian influence that British mods took on. He introduced me to the Madras Jacket and how the garment was finished, and the American tailoring. Colour within a Madras jacket was the key feature, something that in the 60s Britain had never seen.
Carlo then went on to say how he acquires the clothing, he often attends auctions, markets, vintage shops or sometimes through reputation and word of mouth, sellers will approach him.
For example he had a phone call one day from the daughter of a wealthy man that had died, she asked Carlo if he would be interested in buying 50 Savile Row suits! However the suits were in Germany, Carlo then added that he wouldn't go to Germany as it was too much to risk without seeing them. He then offered to pay for them to be shipped over. When they arrived there were 58 Savile Row suits all by Henry Poole and Huntsman. He wouldn't say how much he paid though!
Carlo also explained that although he has done lots of work for lots of films by providing the costumes for many famous films, he never watches them it doesn't interest him. The clothes are what interests him, he said its almost like an obsession, sometimes he will by something simply because he doesn't want anybody else to have it. He also quoted "Men are anoraks".
We asked him what his favourite piece was and he said that it was a Parker jacket, reversible and it was made for the Korean War. The colour on the outside was green and on the inside white.
He also introduced me to a fantastic blog 'the trad' with some dandy images of American inspired 60s fashion. Something I am defiantly interested in experimenting with in my collection.
Key looks - Short ankle length trousers, High waisted trousers, basket ball boats loafers, beef roll stitching on loafers.
Some of the films that Carlo has rented out pieces of his archive to;
Lock stock
Snatch
Mitchell & Webb
Hearafter
Fone jacker
The fast show
Rock n Roller
Hot fuzz
Johnny English
American Girl
Love Actually
Layer Cake
Wimbledon
Match Point
Enduring Love

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